I recently had the strange experience of traveling to a far-away
island and being mistaken for a native.
It’s much more usual for me to be mistaken for a “foreigner,”
with my light brown skin, black eyes, and unruly, curly hair.
Growing up in New York City, I was regularly presumed to be
of Latin American descent. Which made sense, since my mixed heritage includes
African, Spanish (from Spain), Russian, and Native American. I look like the
product of multi-generational miscegenation. Because that’s what I am.
But my high school Spanish classes didn’t prepare me to
respond capably to the rapid-fire queries of all those pretty brown people,
lost in the city subways, expecting me to help them find their way. I tried: “No
comprendo. Habla usted inglés? (I don’t understand. Do you speak English?)”
Which would meet with a dejected “No.”
Did they think I was trying to pass? Disavowing my native
tongue?
Late last month, my family and I traveled to Puerto Rico.
In preparation, my husband tried to scrape together some key
Spanish phrases. His favorite: “Pregunta mi esposa. (Ask my wife.)” Our
daughters claimed to not know any conversational Spanish, in spite of five
years of elementary school study. So I tried to brush off the buried remnants
of the Spanish I once knew, the native language of my beloved Grandpa Juan. We figured
we might be mistaken for Puertorriqueños, and I wanted to be prepared.
In the taxi to the airport, I practiced my Spanish with our Ecuadorian
driver.
My family was shocked, never having heard me converse in
anything but English before. The driver and I discussed our children, their
relative ages, and how they would each be spending the summer break. It was
hard work, but I did all right.
Landing in San Juan, we were no longer tourists.
We blended seamlessly into the sea of brown faces. Nearly
everyone we encountered addressed us in Spanish. Not text book Spanish, but the
fast Puerto Rican flavor, with lots of dropped vowels and English slang. By the
end of our week, our ears were well tuned to it, though we were grateful for
the ease with which most of our contacts could switch to our native tongue.
The big thrill for me was how well we fit in.
The people of Puerto Rico come in all shades of brown. And
for this brown girl, it was the first time I have traveled anywhere and not
felt “other”. I’ve been to every state in the Union, except Hawaii, and have often
felt like an obvious outsider; in a quiet, clear way, like a visitor from
somewhere else. Not white. Not black. Possibly not American. I’ve been called
“exotic” a few too many times.
In Puerto Rico, I found an unexpected comfort, for myself
and my children. It was the ease of blending
in.
Which must be hard to fathom, for those who’ve always known
it.
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